15 Oct 2011

Some Peculiarities of the Perfidious Albion

"Гдѣ Англичанинъ, тамъ коварство и корысть!... «Царствія небеснаго нѣтъ», закричалъ, умирая, несчастный невѣрующій... «А если бы оно было, такъ англичане давно бы туда пробрались и заняли всѣ мѣста»." - Писемскій
I've finally decided to gather some thoughts of the past few weeks here in London. I might as well start with the most obvious and important remark: Great Britain is indeed an island. Yeah, I know, you knew this, didn't you? Well then, you might as well noticed that the people living on any isles tend to have certain necessity to hedge and differ themselves not just from the continent but from the rest of the world. I'm not a Briton and it's yet difficult for me to say where exactly does this phenomenon derive from but as a friend of mine already suggested I'm going to study this question more closely, observe my environment and try to come up with some answers about what makes Britain tick and indeed - what does it mean to be British? Is Britishness just an other national myth or does it still exist outside of Buckingham and Windsor? But these questions will have to wait for different time and occasion. This text is once more all about me.

Well then! Let's start from the beginning. On my first week here at UCL I paid a compulsory visit to NHS clinic here on UCL's central campus in order to register for the National Health Service (for which I am eligible for because I'll be staying here for more than those six required months). At the doctor's reception I was told that I'm both smoker and a drinker. This, to be honest, came quite as blow to me: never in my life would I have though that drinking approximately three pints of ale about once in a week or smoking some pipe tobacco approximately twice in a month is a serious threat to my health. It so happens that in Britain the consumption of alcohol is measured in units. Naturally one would presume that one pint of beer equals to one unit of liqueur (well that is what I first thought) but in fact one pint is two units of alcohol. The official NHS recommendation is four units (that is two pints) per drinking session. Smoking, according to NHS, is completely unacceptable in any amount. I am perfectly aware that both drinking and smoking are rather unhealthy but then again - what is life without some indulgence? And then again, as the Irish say, you will never leave this world alive.

There's more. The most tedious thing about Britain, as I see it, is the complete commercialization of all things possible and impossible. I suppose one example should be enough: I visited the Victoria & Albert museum already a while ago and among other things decided to see the additional exhibition of post-modern art. At some point of that exhibition there was a film with some music by Eurythmics ('Sweet dreams are made of this' etc.) there and I wasn't really surprised to see this. After all the group was considered to be very much post-modern already when they started back in the 80's. However, the thing that did surprise me almost beyond belief was the sight when I left the exhibition and came out into the lobby: the museum shop was completely without proportions. Among other things you could buy the full discography of Eurythmics there. I wonder: since when has haute culture been synonym to merchandise?

There's still something else that has been bothering me. Yesterday I visited the British Museum with a CS friend of mine. There was nothing British there. To tell the truth this British pompousness about and pride for their Imperialist past is slowly getting to my nerves. Well, to be honest I somewhat understand this 'brilliant' thing these islanders have and it goes like this: "we are a small nation state with glorious past, spectacular present and great future" but to me it still sounds like yet another magnificent vision of the Third Rome.

The actual studying at UCL is great. This is not really due the simple fact that this university is one of the best universities in the UK (it's usually ranked in the top three or top five) but rather due to the way the courses are conducted. Only one third part of actual course consists of sitting on lectures and writing down your notes - almost two third part of the course is spent on tutorials (active discussion in small groups with the professor or doctor who is rapidly bombarding the students with questions in order to keep the debate intense). Naturally on every course you have to write two or three essays and undertake an exam in the end of the year.
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To be completely honest I expected bit less work since I'm merely an affiliate student but then again UCL is not really a university for Erasmus programme. On one hand UCL (as I suppose) is merely taking part in the EU student exchange programme in order to send their third year students abroad without too many difficulties or bureaucracy.  On the other hand those students who come to study in UCL as affiliate students are expected to work the same amount as normal undergraduates (mind you the freshmen have it more easy though). When I get back to my home university in Finland I ought to get about 60 credits in return for only seven courses. Considering the amount of work here at UCL I think that the deal is rather fair.
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Now then. I've saved the best bit for the last (and I promise there's no more whining involved) because during these last few weeks I've become positively obsessed with something completely and definitely British: the world's longest running science fiction TV series - the Doctor Who. Seeing that I've gone as far as ordering a CD of Timelord (that's to say Doctor Who related) rock with my brand new British Visa debit card I dare to say my obsession has reached a chronic stage. Here's a piece of music for you (mind the link):


Travelling man... Such secrets to be told.
Alien man... Running from the days of old.
Out of his world, with nothing left to lose.
Travelling man... Coming down to rescue you.

I can finish this long text with the only logical and obvious conclusion: regardless of my whining and cynicism I'm slowly becoming more and more British. I do enjoy my life here and by now I'm beginning to understand this truly global city and country. There are more peculiarities to Britain and if you would like me to relate more about them I will oblige gladly.

And tomorrow I'm off to Oxford to do some Tolkien pilgrimage with my two very good friends Ville (Guillermo) and Vallu (Václav)!

Yours on the Road that goes ever on and on,

-Stefan

PS. Here's a peculiar dessert for you:

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